According the bible of True Links, Bandon Dunes‘ four courses represent 80% of the links courses in the United States, the other being Highland Links in Massachusetts. In fact, the only other links course on the continent of North America is Cabot Links in Nova Scotia. But even if there were 1,000 links courses in North America, Bandon would still be an absolute privilege to play.
I brought my golf weather karma to Oregon in December. Green fees are about a third of what they are in the summer months, and it’s usually because it rains incessantly. The locals told us that the secret is to come in February. The green fees are still cheap, but for some odd reason the weather is reliable. December and January, they told us, are almost impossible to play.
Yet our first morning there we were greeted by clear blue skies, and a completely deserted course. We had the whole place to ourselves, with plenty of time to use their free of charge driving ranges and enjoy some really decent breakfast from their restaurant with a great view of the course and Pacific Ocean.
We started out on Bandon Dunes, and proceeded to be picked apart by one of the toughest courses I have ever played. As much as I love links golf, I can never score on it. Hole after hole introduced new challenges. Impossible gorse, awkward sandy texture lies on what was supposedly grass, greens faster than lightning, oh yeah, and 50mph gusts of wind. Sam, the bastard, managed to card an 86. I couldn’t bear to count after around 12 holes. But the course itself is pure genius, especially the ones that run alongside the cliffs and ocean. One tee in particular stands right in front of a huge cliff. It’s not difficult to clear, but it does enter your mind as you swing. And if you really connect on that one your ball ends up on a higher tiered fairway and much nicer approach.
That night we retreated to our cabin on Chrome Lake, the cheapest of accommodation at the complex. Its rooms are great though, and more affordable in winter. They have somewhat of a ski lodge feel to them, but are spacious and really close to each course. The more luxurious ones are probably better, but we didn’t have anything to complain about at Chrome Lake. The name is cool too. But it is a very well organized set up. The reception is professional and helpful, and they’ll make sure you’re well taken care of.
There’s not a whole lot to do in Bandon, apart from a really sketchy strip club along the highway. It was Sam’s bachelor’s trip so of course we had to go once, and it was about as depressing as it gets. Really unattractive women, passed out drunks at tables, and the constant thought in the back of my head that Oregon’s problem with methamphetamine was a lot worse than I had ever imagined. Oregon is poor, no way around it, especially these days. You’re out in the boonies in Bandon, and as great as the courses are, and as beautiful as Oregon’s Pacific Coast is, and as nice as the people are, it’s hard to get past how bad some folks out here have it.
Over the course of the next three days we hit up Bandon’s other three courses: Old MacDonald (which they call Old Mac), Bandon Trails and Pacific Dunes. All three are great, but very different.
Bandon Dunes 17th
Trails is still a links course, but more inland and with no Ocean views. Its woods give it a quieter feel, but its greens and fairways are as rolling and complicated as ever.
Old Mac is simply impossible. The greens are more glass than grass making putting almost impossible. It’s a long, but beautiful slog, and another course where I stopped keeping track after a few holes. It’s the newest of the four, and widely considered the toughest of the group. Personally, it was too difficult for me to be that enjoyable, but a better golfer will relish the challenge.
Pacific Dunes was probably my favorite, but it was when my weather karma ended. It absolutely dumped on us for just about every hole of round. Still, the course is absolutely gorgeous and the greens are somewhat more realistic.
Pacific Dunes
Each course certainly has its own charm and is a very different experience, and if you have four days or enough time to play them all, it’s worth it. I would go back to Bandon in a heartbeat, but next time I will really have to bring my A-game. These are not courses for novices, even though pretty much anyone can walk on in the winter.
Since we were there, they’ve constructed a fifth course, because apparently four wasn’t enough. So even though playing her was a joyful humiliation, I’d go back in a second for more.
Golf Abstract 